Toddler Raglan Hoodie
By Megan Goodacre
Worked from the top down in worsted weight yarn, this raglan hoodie is easy to work up and finish. A great gift, because kids can never have enough hoodies.
Straightforward construction makes it easy for you to customize the dimensions and add your own contrast details.
Yarn Knit Picks Comfy Worsted, 75% Pima Cotton, 25% Acrylic, 50g/109 yds. 3 (4, 4) 50g balls Color A (shown in Fedora) 1 (1, 1) 50g ball Color B (shown in Marlin)
Chest 20 3/4 (22 1⁄2, 24 1⁄4) inches
Length 11 3⁄4 (12 3⁄4, 13 1⁄4) inches
Length can be easily tweaked in the body. Simply work for more or less length.
To choose a size, measure the chest of a sweater that fits, and choose a similar chest measurement.
Gauge 19 sts, 26 rows = 4 inches/10cm in st st
Needles Circular needles, about 24 inches long 4.5mm (or size required to obtain gauge) 4.0 mm, plus extra circular or straight needle in larger size for 3 needle bind off
Other Supplies 5 (6, 6) buttons, stitch markers, stitch holder or scrap yarn tapestry needle, safety pin
The yoke is worked flat on circular needles from the top down, then the sleeve stiches are placed onto stitch holders to be worked separately. The fronts and back are worked together. The sleeves are then worked flat and the seams sewn at the end. (You could modify the pattern and work the sleeves in the round if you like, to make a seamless pattern.)
With larger needles cast on 38 (46, 46) sts.
Raglan set up row (WS): Purl 6 (7, 7), place marker, p4 (6, 6), pm, 18 (20, 20), pm, p4 (6, 6), pm, p6 (7, 7).
Row 1 (RS): Knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, [kfb, knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, sm] 3 times, kfb, knit to end—46 (54, 54) sts. 8 sts increased.
Row 2 (WS): Purl all stitches.
Repeat the last 2 rows 12 (13, 14) times—142 (158, 166) sts.*
*If you want to work a stripe of colour midway on the yoke, you can work in Color B for 12 rows in a contrasting colour starting on row Row 15 (15, 17).
Next row (RS): Knit 19 (21, 22) (left front), remove marker. Put 30 (34, 36) sts on stitch holder (left sleeve), remove marker. Cast on 6 (6, 8) for underarm. Knit 44 (48, 50) (back), remove marker. Put 30 (34, 36) stitches on stitch holder (right sleeve), remove marker. Cast on 6 (6, 8) for other underarm. Knit to end— 94 (102, 110) sts.
Back and fronts
Continue to work back and fronts in stocking stitch until work measures 6 1⁄4 (7, 71⁄4) inches from underarm, ending with WS row.
Switch to smaller needles.
Work 10 rows in K2/P2 Rib.
(Work both the same). Transfer sleeve stitches from stitch holder to larger needle.
Row 1 (RS): Rejoin yarn, cast on 4 (4, 5), knit to end—34 (38, 41) sts.
Row 2: Cast on 4 (4, 5), purl to end—38 (42, 46) sts.
Work in stocking stitch until sleeve measures 6 (7, 8) inches from underarm, ending with WS row; AT THE SAME TIME, work a Decrease row every 6th row 6 (8, 10) times—26 sts all sizes.
Decrease row (RS): Knit 2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2—2 sts decreased.
Switch to smaller needles.
Work 10 Rows in K2/P2 Rib.
Mark center of back neck edge with a safety pin. With larger needles and right side of work facing, pick up and knit 19 (23, 23) stitches evenly across right front, sleeve, and right side of back to the safety pin. Place marker. Pick up and knit another 19 (23, 23) stitches evenly across left half of back, left sleeve and front—38 (46, 46) sts.
Knit 3 rows, increasing 10 (6, 6) sts evenly across first row—48 (52, 52) sts.
Work in stocking stitch until hood measures 4 (4, 41⁄2) inches from neck edge, ending with WS row; AT THE SAME TIME work an Increase row every 4th row 5 times—58 (62, 62) sts.
Increase row (RS): Knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to end—2 sts increased.
Continue in stocking stitch, working a Decrease row every RS row 8 (10, 10) times—42 (42, 42) sts.
Decrease row (RS): Knit to 3 stitches before marker, K2 tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to end—2 sts decreased.
Use a 3-needle bind off to finish top of hood as follows: Arrange hood sts evenly over 2 needles. Fold hood in half with right sides facing. With a third needle, k2, working through the stitch on both top and bottom needle. Pass first stitch over second on right needle. Continue until one stitch remains on right needle. Break yarn, pass through last stitch.
With smaller needles and right side of work facing you, pick up and knit at a rate of 3 stitches for every 4 rows. As you go, adjust your pick up rate along the hood so that you end with a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2. Make sure to pick up an equal number on the left and right fronts. You will have about 174 (186, 194) sts.
Work in K2/P2 Rib for 3 rows.
On the left band, mark 5 (6, 6) spots for buttonholes.
Next row (RS) (Buttonhole row): Follow rib pattern along the right front and hood.
Continue in rib pattern along left band, working [K2tog, yo] every time you get to a marker.
Work in K2/P2 Rib for 2 more rows.
Bind off, being careful to maintain the tension of the rib.
Weave in ends. Block. Sew sleeve seams and underarm seams. Sew on buttons opposite buttonholes.
k2tog Knit 2 together, decreasing one
kfb Knit into front and back of stitch, increasing one
pm Place marker
rs Right side
sm Slip marker
ssk (slip-slip-knit) Slip 2 stitches knitwise, put tip of left needle through front of them and knit together, decreasing one
st(s) Stitch, stitches
ws Wrong side
yo Yarn over
Stitch Pattern Used
K2/P2 Rib (multiple of 4 stitches, plus 2)
Right side rows: Knit 2, *purl 2, knit 2; repeat from *.
Wrong side rows: P2, *k2, p2; rep from *.